How to Open Your Pool for Spring in Texas
April 11, 2026 | 10 min read
Spring in Texas means one thing for pool owners: it's time to open. Our pool season starts earlier than most of the country — by March, water temps are climbing and algae is already growing. If you wait until May, you might be opening a green swamp instead of a clear pool. Here's the complete step-by-step guide to opening your Texas pool the right way.
When to Open Your Pool in Texas
In the DFW area, aim to open your pool by mid-March to early April. Here's why:
- Water temperatures start climbing above 60°F in March
- Algae begins growing at 65°F — by April, it's actively growing
- The longer your pool sits closed, the harder the opening becomes
- Chemical imbalances get worse over time, not better
- Equipment that sat idle needs inspection before summer demand
If you winterized your pool properly last fall, opening should be straightforward. If you just threw a cover on and walked away... it might be a longer process.
Step 1: Remove and Clean the Cover
Before you touch the water, deal with the cover:
- Pump off standing water — Use a cover pump or wet/dry vac to remove rainwater from the top of the cover.
- Clean debris — Sweep off leaves, twigs, and dirt before pulling the cover off. You don't want this in your pool.
- Remove the cover carefully — Have two people grab the corners and pull it off. Try not to dump whatever's on top into the water.
- Clean and store the cover — Rinse it with a hose, let it dry completely, then store it in a cool, dry place. Sprinkle with a little baking soda to prevent mold.
Step 2: Inspect the Pool and Equipment
Before you start anything, do a visual inspection:
- Check the water level — Should be at the middle of the skimmer opening. If it dropped over winter, top it off.
- Look for cracks or damage — Check tile, plaster, coping, and around fittings. Note anything that needs repair.
- Inspect the equipment pad — Look for cracks in the pump housing, leaking valves, or damaged plumbing. Freeze damage is common in Texas.
- Check the filter — If you have a DE filter, it needs fresh DE. Cartridge filters should be cleaned or replaced. Sand filters may need sand replaced if it's been 3-5 years.
- Check the skimmer and returns — Make sure freeze plugs are removed if you installed them.
If you find any equipment issues, that's when to call us. Our pool repair service starts at $85 for a service call, and we can usually get you running the same day.
Step 3: Start the Pump and Circulate
Once you've confirmed everything looks good:
- Open all valves
- Prime the pump — fill the pump basket with water before starting
- Turn on the pump and check for leaks
- Let it run for 30 minutes to circulate
- Check for air bubbles in the returns — if you see them, you may have a suction-side leak
If the pump won't prime or you see significant leaks, shut it off and call for repair. Running a dry pump will destroy it in minutes.
Step 4: Test and Balance the Water
Now that the pump is running, it's time for chemistry. Use a proper test kit (not strips — they're not accurate enough). Test for:
- Total Alkalinity (TA) — Adjust first. Aim for 80-120 ppm. Add baking soda to raise, muriatic acid to lower.
- pH — Aim for 7.2-7.8. Adjust after TA is set.
- Calcium Hardness (CH) — Aim for 200-400 ppm. Add calcium chloride to raise. Only draining lowers it.
- Cyanuric Acid (CYA) — Aim for 30-50 ppm. If over 70, plan a partial drain.
- Free Chlorine (FC) — Last thing you adjust. Add liquid chlorine to reach your target based on CYA level.
For a full chemistry breakdown, see our pool chemistry basics guide.
Step 5: Shock the Pool
Even if your pool looks clear, shock it. After sitting for months, there's organic buildup that needs to be oxidized. Use liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) at shock level based on your CYA — see our SLAM guide for the chart.
Run the pump for 24 hours after shocking. Brush the walls and floor to help the chlorine reach all surfaces.
Step 6: Clean the Pool
After 24 hours of circulation and shocking:
- Skim the surface for any remaining debris
- Vacuum the pool floor
- Brush walls, steps, and tile line
- Clean the skimmer and pump baskets
- Clean or backwash the filter
If your pool is green after all this, you need a full SLAM. See our SLAM guide or call us for green pool recovery.
Step 7: Run the Pump and Maintain
For the first week after opening, run your pump 24/7. This ensures proper circulation and gives chemicals time to fully dissolve and mix. After the first week:
- Run the pump 8-12 hours per day during spring
- Test water chemistry 2-3 times per week
- Skim and brush weekly
- Vacuum as needed
- Clean skimmer baskets weekly
Spring Pool Opening Checklist
- ☠Remove and clean pool cover
- ☠Remove freeze plugs (if used)
- ☠Check water level — top off to middle of skimmer
- ☠Inspect equipment for freeze damage or leaks
- ☠Clean or replace filter media
- ☠Prime and start the pump
- ☠Check for air leaks and proper circulation
- ☠Test water: TA, pH, CH, CYA, FC
- ☠Adjust TA first, then pH, then CH
- ☠Shock the pool with liquid chlorine
- ☠Run pump 24/7 for first week
- ☠Brush all surfaces
- ☠Skim and vacuum debris
- ☠Clean baskets
- ☠Test again after 24 hours
- ☠Switch to regular maintenance schedule
Don't Want to Do It Yourself?
Spring opening is one of the most labor-intensive pool tasks of the year. If you'd rather skip the work and start the season with crystal-clear water, we've got you covered. Our seasonal pool opening service includes everything above — cover removal, equipment inspection, full chemical balance, shock, vacuum, and brush. Starting at $199.
Or sign up for weekly service at $180/month (chemicals included) and never worry about pool chemistry again. Call 682-399-2593 or get a free quote online.
Need Help Opening Your Pool?
Spring opening from $199. Weekly service from $180/mo with chemicals included. CPO certified.